The South Australian Wine Story

“Whatever yardstick one adopts, Coonawarra produces most of Australia’s great Cabernet Sauvignon.” So says James Halliday, and few good judges would disagree with him. Yet it nearly wasn’t so. In the early 20th century Coonawarra’s wines were used for little more than distilling into brandy and immediately after World War II authorities encouraged returning soldiers to rip out the few established vineyards so they could make a living from agriculture. Fortunately, David Wynn had other ideas. Recognising the potential of the unique red “terra rossa” soils, in 1951 he took a gamble and bought the famous stone winery, cellars and original estate vineyards established by Scottish migrant John Riddoch six decades earlier. And thus the legend of Wynns Coonawarra Estate was born. Other visionaries followed, and the Coonawarra became the first cool- climate viticultural region to gain national prominence. Today it is one of six recognised wine regions within the Limestone Coast Zone that begins about 300 kilometres south-east of Adelaide. Each is unique in its own way. Padthaway (the name means “good water” in the language of the Potawurutj people) was the next region to become established. Like the Coonawarra, it is a long and thin strip of land and its potential was not fully recognised until the 1940s. Only when Australia’s national science organisation, the CSIRO, suggested Padthaway’s rich soil, underground water, Mediterranean climate and coastal influences were ideal for horticulture did wine companies sit up and take notice. Seppelt established the first vineyards in 1964, quickly followed by Lindemans, Hardys, Wynns and others. Today, James Halliday rates the region as “an unambiguously important producer of premium-quality wines”. Unlike the Coonawarra, however, Padthaway has only patches of terra rossa. It has made its name with grapes grown in predominantly red-brown, loamy sand soils that have more in common with regions such as the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. The Limestone Coast’s four other regions – Wrattonbully, Mt Benson, Robe and Mt Gambier – are all relatively new, with vineyards and boutique wineries sharing the landscape with a range of other agriculture. Mt Benson and Robe both hug the coast (the township of Robe is one of South Australia’s premier holiday destinations) and the maritime influence is pronounced. Wrattonbully shares neighbouring Coonawarra’s red soils but is deceptively warmer, while Mount Gambier is the state’s youngest and coolest region, with great potential for Pinot Noir and sparkling. The Limestone Coast is now the second largest grower of grapes in South Australia after the Riverland region, and one of the most important in terms of the value of production. Point of Difference The Limestone Coast is distinctive in South Australia for a volcanic history that created its topography and unique soils and for a constant supply of the purest underground water. Beneath the soil – sometimes up to a metre down but in other places just below the surface – lies a layer of calcareous limestone that has significant water retention properties. It is estimated that 60% of the underground water table replenishes itself through local rainfall. This resource is cherished by local grape growers, who manage it with a close eye on scientific measures of soil moisture. The Bonney upwelling that occurs each summer brings very cold water up from deep in the Southern Ocean along the region’s southern and western coasts, creating cooling onshore winds and keeping night temperatures low, ideal for the creation of elegant wines. It also provides nutrients for the famous Southern Rock Lobster fishery. Top Wines The Langton’s Classification is the definitive guide to Australia’s prestige wines. In its 2018 edition, the following Limestone Coast wines were rated among the best of the best. Exceptional Wynns Coonawarra Estate: John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Outstanding Balnaves of Coonawarra: The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Katnook Estate: Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone Coast Zone Coonawarra / Padthaway / Wrattonbully / Mt Benson / Robe / Mt Gambier The South Australian Wine Story 19